By Sidonie Maroon, The Food Co-op Culinary Educator, abluedotkitchen.com

Follow Sidonie on The Food Co-op’s Facebook group Cooking with the Co-op

Autumnal Trio

My mouth watered as my son described his neighbor’s mushroom business: Holy Shiitake Fungi Farm, owned by Keith Dixon in Chimacum. I could taste the firm textured mushrooms with their buttery meaty flavor and concentrated smoky richness. Oh, how I love shiitakes, and I’m excited when new local businesses pop up. There are several and they’re providing lion’s mane, oyster, shiitake, chanterelles and more. We have the climate and know-how, so let’s support this fortunate turn of events. You can buy directly from growers, or find local mushrooms at our grocery stores, the Farmer’s Market, Chimacum Farm Stand and the Food Co-op.

Seasonal Trios

My favorite autumnal trio is shiitake, delicata and kale. And, miracle of taste buds they all grow here. We are so fortunate to grow seasonal foods that are made for each other, creating soups, stews, casseroles, sushi, and warm salads. Their flavor possibilities are diverse, from Japanese and Korean to Italian and Baltic. They’re rich and vibrant enough to take center stage without ornamentation.

Don’t Wash Shiitakes

In Japanese shi means “from a hardwood tree” and take “mushroom”. Shiitakes have less water than other mushrooms, which gives them a meatier texture. Shiitakes never touch the ground, so only need a dry cloth to wipe them off. Never waterlog a shiitake.

Dry Shiitakes at Home

Fresh shiitakes are easy to dehydrate, and their flavors intensify. Slice and lay out at room temperature, turning daily until dry. I also use a food dehydrator. Did you know you can freeze dried shiitakes? A wonderful trick is to grind dried shiitakes into a powder. Use it on popcorn, or as a topping ingredient on soups or salads.

Cooking Shiitakes

I like to roast or saute them. Either way, as Julia Child says, “Don’t crowd the mushrooms.” You want them to sizzle, not steam. Saute them over a lively heat, so that they develop a browned crisp exterior. Roasting is even easier with little hands-on time involved.

Of Stems and Stock

Shiitake stems are too fibrous to saute well, but add depth to broths and stock. I save all my peelings, stems and seeds for broth making. I don’t use onion papery peels or anything in the cabbage family, but otherwise all my scraps make delicious healthful brews. The Instant Pot is the easiest approach: add scraps, water to cover and set to the broth cycle for 30 minutes at high pressure with a natural release. Delicata seeds, peels and guts make yummy broths.

Jazz Trio

Shiitake is the star, but let’s introduce the rest of the band. On bass we have Delicata. Did you realize delicata is the perfect squash to load? Shaped like a boat, easy to prepare, sweet and creamy. They are on par if not better than loaded sweet potatoes. My recipe will take you through the loaded basics; then you can jazz it up and improvise from there.

On saxophone is the lovely Kale. In my mind, the secret to kale is to slice it fine and cook until unctuous. Raw or crisp, we already know, but creamy is what’s wanted with delicata and shiitake. Old school is often tastier.

Loaded Delicata with Roasted Shiitake and Parmesan Kale

Makes 2 servings

An easy Autumn side that you’ll want to keep in your repertoire. The squash roasts and steams, making the insides sweet and the skin edible. The kale becomes unctuous, while the shiitakes and golden garlic are addictive. Serve alone or with Italian sausage.

Ingredients

Shiitakes

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ pound shiitakes, stemmed and thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

Squash

1 delicata squash, sliced lengthwise, seeded

Sprinkle of sea salt

Dash of pepper or red chili powder

Glug of olive oil

2 teaspoons dried sage, or 1 tablespoon fresh

Kale

1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, chiffonade

Pinch of sea salt

Drizzle of olive oil

1 tablespoon sherry or apple cider vinegar

½ cup grated parmesan cheese

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 425 F and prep all ingredients

2. Prepare the squash by cutting off the top and tail ends, slicing lengthwise and scraping out the seeds (save the squash scraps to make stock). Rub with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper and sage. Fresh would be wonderful if you have it. Lay the squash in the bottom of a large rectangular casserole lined with parchment paper. A lidded casserole is best, or turn a rimmed baking sheet upside down to cover while roasting.

3. Prepare the kale by washing, chopping off the stems, rolling the leaves tightly in a bundle lengthwise and finely chopping into rounds, then chop the other direction into smaller pieces. Lay the cut kale on a large piece of parchment paper, massage in olive oil, salt, vinegar and cheese. Wrap the kale up into a package. Lay it, wrapped side down, into the casserole next to the squash.

4. Roast, on a middle shelf, at 425 F the squash and kale for 45 minutes.

5. Prepare the mushrooms by wiping them off. Cut off the stems and save them for stock. Slice the shiitakes thinly. On a parchment lined baking sheet lay the mushrooms out. Toss with the olive oil and garlic. Do not salt the mushrooms until they’ve roasted.

6. 15 minutes before the squash is done, add shiitakes to the oven. Stir them after 7 minutes. They will roast for 15 minutes total.

7. Take everything out and assemble: Open up the wrapped kale and section out a half into each squash boat. Salt the shiitakes and mound onto the kale. Be careful not to eat them all before they reach the squash. Serve with verve — delicioso!

Zucchini dolmas stuffed with apple, dill and lamb

Serves 4-6

30 minutes hands-on plus 45 minutes baking time

The word dolma is Turkish from the word dolmak, meaning to fill. Often meat dolmas are eaten warm with tahini sauce, while rice based dolmas are served with a yogurt sauce at room temperature. This lamb dolma skips the rice, excellently uses an abundance of zucchini, and is served with a dill yogurt sauce sans tahini. The lamb, apple, dill and red chili make a delightful if unique filling. Ground turkey would also work for this dish.

Ingredients

For dolma shells

1 large overgrown zucchini or 3 medium or 4 small (cut and cored as directed)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Pinch fine sea salt

For stuffing

1 lb ground lamb

1 medium onion, cut into a small dice (about 1 cup)

1 tart baking apple, with skin, cut into a small dice

1 bunch of fresh dill, finely chopped, including the tender stems, divided into two piles

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

2 tablespoons flax meal

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon red chili powder

For sauce

1 cup plain Greek style yogurt

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced

Second half of chopped fresh dill

Directions

Mix all the lamb stuffing ingredients together, do not overwork.

Preheat the oven to 375 F. Have a large covered casserole ready, I used a cast-iron skillet with a lid. If you don’t have a lid, over the casserole with a baking sheet. Cut the zucchini into rounds the correct height to fit inside your casserole with the lid on. If the zucchini is large carve out the center softer pulp with a spoon, until only the firm part remains by 1 inch. If the zucchinis are smaller, use an apple corer to remove the center leaving enough wall to create a sturdy vessel for the filling. Rub the cored zucchinis with olive oil and a pinch of salt, setting them upright in the casserole. Stuff them with the lamb mixture, and bake covered for about 45 minutes, or until the zucchini can be pierced easily with a knife.

For the sauce

Using a small food processor, or with a mortar and pestle, grind the garlic, salt and lemon juice together, adding the yogurt. Pour the sauce into a serving bowl and stir in chopped dill. The raw garlic taste will mellow as it sits.

Serve the dolmas warm or at room temperature with the yogurt sauce.

Shiitake Onion Soup

Makes 8 servings

Time 2 hours

This soup, when done well, makes memories; deep, sophisticated yet direct. The secret is to allow the onions to caramelize to a deep bronze, then add the shiitakes half at a time so they saute instead of steam. The shiitake flavor is foremost, with the onion in the supporting role. Use a finishing salt at the end and apple cider vinegar to open the rich flavors.

Ingredients

2¼ lb onions( about 4 medium), use a mix of sweet and yellow, slice onions thinly with the grain Chinese stir fry style

¾ lb fresh shiitake mushrooms, bottoms minced and caps thinly sliced

6 cloves minced garlic

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup medium dry golden sherry

5½ cups good quality beef stock, preferably homemade

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

finishing sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar or until flavors open.

1/2-lb Gruyère grated

¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Directions

1 In a large heavy-bottomed stock pot, over moderate heat, cook the onions in butter until a deep golden brown for about 45 minutes. Stay close, stir often and don’t let them burn.

2 When the onions are caramelized, add ½ of the shiitakes. Allow them to sweat 4-5 minutes before adding the other half. When the shiitakes are ready, about 10-15 minutes total, add the garlic and saute another 2-3 minutes.

3 Add the sherry, deglaze the pan, and let it cook off until it doesn’t smell of alcohol.

4 Make a bouquet garni, tie together thyme and bay leaves and add it to the pot. Add the stock and let the soup simmer, uncovered, until the flavors meld, about 15 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni, and taste for salt. Add the apple cider vinegar, only one teaspoon at a time, stir and wait briefly before tasting. The right amount of acid and salt will fully open the flavors of the soup. Add freshly ground pepper at the table.

5 Ladle oven proof bowls full of soup, sprinkle a handful of Gruyère and Parmigiano-Reggiano on top of each bowl, and briefly melt the cheese under a broiler. Serve bubbly hot.

Instant Pot Vegetarian Mushroom Pho

Inspired by Andrea Nguyen’s The PHO cookbook

Serves 4

Takes 2 hours, mostly hands-off

Try this recipe when a vegetarian pho is in order. It’s flavorful mushroom broth and spicy notes contrast well with shiitakes and aromatic basil. The lime, added at the table, sets everything harmoniously together.

Ingredients

For the Broth

2 quarts water

1 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt, more if needed

1-inch piece of unpeeled ginger thickly sliced and bruised

4 cloves garlic peeled

1 medium yellow onion cut into thick half slices

1 medium tart/sweet apple with peel, cored and cut into chunks

2 celery stalks coarsely chopped

3 packed cups crimini mushrooms roughly chopped

1 ounce dried mixed mushrooms

2 whole cloves

2 star anise

2 teaspoons coriander seed

1/2 cinnamon stick

3 tablespoons Braggs liquid aminos, more if needed

2 teaspoons coconut sugar

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

For the Noodles

10 ounces dried narrow flat rice noodles

For the Bowl

1 red onion sliced paper thin and quickly blanched for 30 seconds, in a noodle basket or sieve, right before the noodles are cooked.

1 bunch Thai basil leaves, with leaves taken off the stems.

½ lb shiitake mushrooms, stems taken off and thinly sliced

1 lime sliced for squeezing

Making the broth

Turn the Instant Pot to medium saute and dry toast the spices until fragrant, then take them out and set aside. Turn to high saute and add the onion, ginger and garlic turning frequently until aromatic,

3 minutes. Turn the heat off and add the spices, apple, celery, mushrooms, salt and water. Set on the broth cycle, using a natural release. When the broth’s done, strain it through a sieve and discard the solids. Add the Braggs, coconut sugar, and vinegar. Keep the broth hot, under a simmer, until it’s time to serve.

Prepping the bowls

While the broth cooks, ready the other ingredients — Prep the basil and red onions. When you’re close to serving, stir-fry or grill the shiitake slices, on a high heat, in batches, using a small amount of oil.

Making the noodles

Bring a large pot of water to a boil; then keep it at a high simmer until needed. Soak the noodles covered in hot tap water, until opaque and pliable about 15- 30 minutes. Drain and wash off any extra starch, then drain them again. When you’re ready to serve the pho, bring the noodle water to a boil and dunk in a single portion of the noodles, using a noodle strainer or mesh sieve. This will heat and soften them. Submerge them for 60 seconds or al dente. Lift the noodles from the pot, shake the strainer to remove any excess water, and put the noodles in a warmed bowl. Repeat until all the bowls have noodles. Each bowl should contain a ratio of ⅓ noodles to ⅔ broth and toppings.

Serving the Pho

If possible, the bowls should be warm. The noodles will go in the bottom, followed by the broth, then onion, shiitake followed by the basil. I recommend a generous squeeze of lime or a dash of garlic vinegar. Eat the pho by first wafting the fragrance, then tasting and slurping heartily. Vietnamese traditionally eat pho with ceramic soup spoons and chopsticks.

Roasted Cremini Chowder in Delicata Broth

Ingredients

For Chowder

¼ cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 lb cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

4 medium carrots, cut into thin sticks and then a medium dice

2 stalks celery, cut into thin sticks and then a medium dice

6 cloves garlic, minced wit inner growing stem removed

2 teaspoons dried thyme

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cut into a medium dice

For Broth

Scraps and peelings from the vegetables, but not the papery parts of the onions.

2 bay leaves

1 whole delicata squash, roughly cut up, include the skin and seeds

1 quart chicken broth, homemade preferred

1 teaspoon sea salt

To Finish

½ cup cold water

2 tablespoons potato starch, cornstarch will work

2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

Directions

1. Roast the mushrooms 425 F , on a parchment lined baking sheet, for 20 minutes, stirring for 15 minutes. Pour off the mushroom liquids and reserve. Roast for another 8 minutes or until meaty and rich tasting.

2. On another parchment lined baking sheet, roast the other vegetables with the butter, thyme, salt and red pepper flakes sprinkled over them. They should all be about the same size to roast evenly. Roast them for 20 minutes, stir and continue to roast for another 15 to 20 minutes.

3. While the vegetables are roasting, simmer the broth together in a soup pot for 30 minutes. I used my Instant Pot on the broth cycle. Strain the broth.

4. In a small liquid measure, make a slurry by adding ½ cup water to 2 tablespoons potato starch. Slowly add to the strained broth. Blend the broth and slurry together in a blender at high speed.

5. Add roasted veggies (not mushrooms) and blended broth together in the soup pot. Remove two cups of veggies and broth, blend them together and return the puree to the pot. Add the mushrooms, reserved juices and vinegar. Stir and taste.

Beef Köfte Stew with Onions and Sumac

inspired from Hakkâri province

Serves 4

1 hour

Sumac water, made by brewing sumac powder as you would for tea, adds a tart flavor to meat dishes. You can buy sumac powder in the bulk section of the Port Townsend Food Coop. I like the onions to sweeten and even add a little date sugar at the end to counterbalance the sumac. With the flavorful köfte, which is another name for meatballs, and a little heat from red chilies this dish hits the spot. Serve it alone or ladled over rice.

Ingredients

For köfte (meatballs)

1 lb ground beef

½ teaspoon whole allspice

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon peppercorns

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1 teaspoon dried garlic granules

1 tablespoon dried onion flakes

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

For stew

⅓ cup dried sumac powder

1 quart water

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 large red onions, halved and thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons date sugar, or brown whole cane sugar

½ cup tomato paste

½ teaspoon hot red pepper powder, or ¼ teaspoon cayenne (Korean is a good substitute for Turkish)

Sea salt to taste

Directions

Beginning

Read the recipe and gather all ingredients and equipment.

Preheat a large heavy-bottomed skillet on the stovetop.

Prep the onions and garlic and make the sumac water.

Making the sumac water

You are basically making sumac tea, by pouring 1 quart of boiling water over the sumac powder, using a French press or Mason jar. Brew the sumac until it’s called for in the recipe and then strain it through a coffee or tea filter.

Saute the onions

Turn the heat under the skillet to medium high. Add olive oil letting it warm up, add the onions, stir and cover with a lid for 5 minutes, allowing the onions to sweat. Take the lid off, stir and continue to cook the onions for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Don’t let them burn, reduce the heat if needed, but allow them to sweeten.

While you are waiting for the onions to cook, make the köfte

Measure the spices and salt together and grind them into a powder using a spice or coffee grinder. Add the spice mix to the ground beef and mix everything together until combined, but don’t overwork the meat. Divide the meat into two large balls and continue to divide until you have 12 balls of about 2 tablespoons each. Briefly, using your palms roll each ball into a torpedo shape and lay on a plate.

Add garlic, sugar and tomato paste

After the onions are soft, add the sugar, garlic and tomato paste and cook another 3-4 minutes.

Now it’s time to simmer the köfte in the sumac water

Lay the köfte on top of the onion mixture. Pour the strained sumac water over the meatballs. Put a lid on and simmer for 12-15 minutes at a medium low heat, about 215F. You want to see bubbles rising but slowly. Open a köfte to check for doneness, you shouldn’t see any red, but it should still be moist. Remember to taste, adding the red chili powder and salt if needed.

Serve the stew hot.