By James Robinson, Your Co-op Sommelier

Martha Stoumen wines have arrived at the Food Co-op, and members have a ‘first- come, first-served’ opportunity to purchase bottles before they hit the store shelves.

For those unfamiliar with Stoumen and her wines, Stoumen is part of a vanguard of California winemakers dedicated to clean wines made from high quality fruit that resonate with a sense of place. To that end, Stoumen crafts her wines with little intervention and eschews chemical applications or additions.

Natural Farming, Pure Fruit, Clean Wines

Martha Stoumen Wines was founded upon Stoumen’s desire to recapture a farming and winemaking culture that has all but faded away: a winemaking culture of patience. From Stoumen’s perspective, wine is an agricultural product. Just as with food, highly processed wines and wines made from conventionally farmed grapes contain additives to mask flavor deficiencies in the base ingredient: grapes.

“Why apply harmful pesticides and herbicides when we know this kills soil microbiology, the very thing that assists in plant nutrition and grape flavor? In the vineyard we farm for healthy soils and vine longevity rather than high yields,” according to Stoumen. “We allow predatory insects the ability to outcompete pests rather than spraying insecticides and do proper handwork to ensure healthy grapes come into the cellar ready to make flavorful, honest wines.

“We craft our wines in Sebastopol, Calif., in a winery we share with friends. Our main goal is to create complex, delicious wines, and, simple as it sounds, the best way to do this is by using complex, delicious grapes. Healthy grapes contain every ingredient necessary to make wine. Each berry contains sugar and acid in the pith, tannin in the skin and stems, and a rich bloom of yeast and bacteria on the clusters. We embrace the idea that wine is an agricultural product, and no two wines should taste the same. Instead of using a single commercial yeast species, we embrace native fermentations and the many flavors a diversity of microbes bring to our wines,” Stoumen said. “In the cellar we strive to create the conditions for the natural process of fermentation to thrive. We work with our hands, feet, and our own human energy to bring these wines to life, and are energized by this process. Harvest heals, excites, inspires, and connects us every year.”

To Stoumen, patience in the vineyard also means composting rather than adding synthetic fertilizers, dry farming instead of irrigation and following an organic, holistic approach rather than conventional farming practices.

California Roots, Old World Approach

After eight years apprenticing around the world, Martha set out in 2014 as a self-funded, first generation winemaker focused on answering the question: “What does California taste like?”

Stoumen discovered that in her home area of Northern California, Mediterranean grapes thrived and healthy vineyards could create joyful, balanced wines.

“Our wines are made from unexpected varietals and offer new takes on California classics. We do things the right way even if it's not the easy or cool way,” said Stoumen. “Of the dozen or so wines we make every year, blends and flavors change but our desire to share the simple pleasures of natural wine remains the same.”

Stoumen practices winemaking with a minimalist approach. She lets the fruit speak for itself, eschews additives or tinkering of any kind.

“Above all, we strive to make wines that are delicious, joyful and truly representative of California,” Stoumen said. “We take joy seriously. We believe natural wines jive with your body better: whether it’s a darker, more structured red, a snappy, chill-able red, or a bright, acidic white, they tend to uplift you more than weigh you down. That heavy, tired, feeling you get when you drink a glass of conventional wine can be a thing of the past.”

Stoumen makes just under 600 cases of wine a year. Of that, just 30 bottles made their way to Port Townsend’s Food Co-op. Of that 30, there are just six bottles of each variety listed available – first come, first served to co-op members. To place an order, send an email to jamesr@foodcoop.coop. Please include what you’d like along with your full name, telephone number and co-op number.

Martha Stoumen, Carignan Ricetti Vineyard 2019 $38.99

Certified organic and dry farmed on gravelly loam, the Ricetti Carignan invites the drinker to dance in a more delicate dimension with aromas like crumbling dried rose petals, and breaths of dry mountain air. A silky body offers a taste of cinnamon and sunny red currant.

Martha Stoumen, Honeymoon 2020 $34.99

Aromas of candied melon and alpine herbs embrace a taste of almond skin. Bright acidity and a rounded texture offer a balanced, easy-going finish. Enjoy this wine with simple, decadent snacks, hearty bread with a big chunk of butter and salt, Comté, chicken roasted with wine and schmaltzy potatoes and friends.

50% colombard, 25% chenin blanc, 25% chardonnay.

Martha Stoumen, Mendocino Benchlands 2020 $31.99

This light blend smells like tart raspberries just plucked off the bush and tastes like grown up Hawaiian punch. Notes of pineapple, pluot, and orange groove together for a rejuvenating blend, and show off a lighter side of Petite Sirah.

40% petite sirah, 37% zinfandel, 23% nero d'avola

Martha Stoumen, Vermentino Venturi Vineyard 2020 $38.99

This uncommon grape brings familiar flavors of a buzzing summer day with zesty lime, a luscious body, and a touch of grapefruit pith. Smells like powdered sugar on a lemon bar and a warm picnic table. Enjoy with anything rich and salty that you can cook while staying warm next to an open flame. Grilled calamari, grilled halloumi, grilled white fish, grilled veggies. Add a splash to dishes you’re taking for a slower simmer like Mediterranean fish stew or herby white beans.

Martha Stoumen, Nero dAvola 2019 $44.99

This wine smells like tomato vines and wild forest fruits. It feels like dark cocoa powder swirling in bright blackberry juice on your tongue. Enjoy this with any Italian dish you’re making. This wine needs food and gets along with the layered flavors of puttanesca, paella, and lentils stewed with tomato and bay leaf. Try it with blistered shishito peppers, grilled romaine, and dishes with burnt herbs.